Now over the Andes, Santiago was - via a day's southerly ride - in sight. My dilemma was; Do I ride [south] into the chaotic, traffic riddled huge city, find a hostel, find a bike, get the wheel fixed, or, press on north and keep positive that a bike shop in one of the towns I'd ride through would have a good bike mechanic? After all, just because Santiago is the capital doesn't mean the bike mechanics would be any better than a small town...the latter option winning the vote.
The section I'd ride, goes through the Atacama Desert - the driest non polar desert in the world. As I tend to make up the route as I go along, I was unsure as to how much of the Pan-Am I'd ride but was - as on Argentina's Ruta 40 - looking forward to some long distance days on clearly visible northerly progress. Although it's good to zig-zag now and then - with such a long south-to-north route up the Americas - I also like to see that my direction is maintained, else I'd feel lack of progress and that I'm getting no where.
The following morning I head out for the ten kilometre ride to where I join the Pan-Am Highway.
With this road not passing through villages and towns my interaction with people was somewhat limited but I was nevertheless enjoying each days pace. Earlier I'd acknowledged a couple of road cyclists who'd gone past, later whilst having my bus-stop lunch break they were heading back on their return loop, stopping for a brief chat one of them throws me syrup-like energy bar (liquid sugar!).
Later that day I arrive at the big city of La Serena, knowing that finding a campsite here would not be easy I'm almost drawn to a motel / hotel but had been enjoying my previous nights rather random places I'd camped at. Carrying on to the edge of the city I ask at a house with ample surrounding land but was turned away, back-tracking to a river I'd seen I manage to find a space - not exactly out of view - but appeared okay, and would fit in nicely as a 'different' place on my 'random places to camp' list..how many consecutive nights would that reach?
Awaiting on the opposite side of the mountain was welcomed clear skies, and (bonus) yet another tail wind, zipping me along nicely at 35 km/h. That evening I arrive at the mountain village of Vallenar, this really felt like one of the Moroccan Atlas Mountain villages. So what random place would I find myself pitched at this evening??..now that's a new one, a church! Soon locating a tap at a neighbouring community centre I'm set for the night (see my tent in the corner?).
Most of the Ruta 5 is now dual carriageway but here preparations were still being made to bypass the town with the new dual section. This reminded me of U.S. Route 66 'progress' whereby the newer road that bypassed the towns and villages had severed their income, fuelling their decline. The village certainly held no trophy for the Centre of Excitement but I wondered what the future would hold.
A misty haze starts the new day but once the sun's above the mountain peaks it clears, revealing some great views as again, the road climbs up.
This was proving to be a great road. Sufficient towns and villages to buy supplies but not too many hinder progress, little traffic, great views and a smooth road.
Having rode past several huge solar-power farms in the Atacama region I read that due to Northern Chile's solar incidence it has the potential of producing all of its electricity via solar. In June 2014 a 1oo megawatt power plant near Copiapo was opened, capable of producing 270 gigawatts (270 million, one thousand times over!!). I was pushed not to see any pylon construction in progress, they were everywhere.
In town, stocking up on food supplies and cash at the ATM I head back to the river route and manage to find an ideal camp spot, slightly shielded from view I'm good for the night.
"Native Fauna in danger of extinction" Being so dry I'd wondered just how the sporadic spread of shrub-like plants actually gets watered..my intrigue would soon be answered...
Every so often I'd see one of these, a truckers road-side cafe, around lunch time the better ones would have many trucks pulled up around them.
The road tapering off into the horizon, along with the several lines of electricity pylons either side, yet to have the miles of cables installed. Copiapo was the next big town, too far for the day so fingers-crossed I'd manage to find a suitable area to pitch.
Up ahead my map showed a turning and as I got closer I could see some buildings / sheds at the junction, looking suitable to camp but without any water I then noticed a kilometre or so further along Ruta 5 [what I hoped] to be a truckers stop. Riding down to it my luck was in! With a large mound at the entrance for visitors to walk up that overlooked the parking bay made a great place to pitch, a food vendor selling fast-food and the toilet / shower block. Another new entry on my 'random places to camp' list!
Although one of the driest areas in the world, this is how the native fauna gets watered, by the early morning dew that condenses on everything....tents and bicycles included! A real surprise, something that I never expected, from the previous day's scorching heat, to this damp, cool start.
Meeting him early the next day he leaves for work, working as a lawyer for a company - literally next door. Unfortunately his wife and daughter were away visiting their parents but fortunately Felipe loves to cook and makes a great homemade pizza, washed down with a beer or two...
With just over 700 kilometres of the Pan-Am under my wheels the next section
takes me into the heart of the Atacama Desert, all in the next posting!
takes me into the heart of the Atacama Desert, all in the next posting!
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